Crossing the coastal cordillera

Back to Santiago on the back roads.  A much more pleasant trip but a more challenging mountain climb came with it.  A little taste of what we will be getting when we actually cross the Andes. This little foothill was so fun and challenging. The switchbacks were tight and as we climbed the day, which was already chilly, got more and more frigid.  We came into the clouds.  Though it was midday all I could see was white around me. I focused on the white line on the road and we inched out way up.  My legs got goosebumps and the clouds would clear for a minute and come back.  On the switchback I looked down and instead of the valley it was all white.  It was scary and fun and why I'm here.  We finally got to the top and the clouds lifted, the sun shown, and my hands has life again.  The valley was dry and full of olive groves and cactus. We had come over from the damp chilly ocean side of the mountain and down to the dry valley.  We had experienced the full rain shadow affect. As I descended more and realized this I saw the cloud that had covered the other side of the mountain pouring over this side.  It was moving so fast, almost violently down into the valley and dissipating gently into the dry air.  It was a force, it was alive, and it emphasized the feeling in my legs as they absorbed the sun,  the awareness of my swiftness and freedom downward and that I was happy and fully alive as I tumbled down and watched and fully absorbed the moment.  This is why i'm here. 

I'm also here for the empanadas 

Chilean Hospitality

We spent three days in Vin Del Mar with Matias and Sebastian.  It was a wonderful experience.  We had a chance to socialize, make home cooked meals together, have a comfortable home base, practice Spanish, and bond with two wonderful human beings.  

Grocery shopping 

Homemade Completos, a favorite Chilean meal. It's a hot dog DRAPED in mayonnaise (we made our own), mashed avocado, and diced tomato. Es muy rico!

Roka!  The sweetest dog to keep us company 

Exclusive tours!

Priceless knowledge 

Las Docas

The next day we rode south of Valparaiso. 

From the coastal highway

Little turnoff to look at the view

Then we find las Docas

Papudo

Coastal (tiny)highway riding for two days north and south of Valparaiso.  

It's cold and damp. We're wearing all our layers. It's around 52 degrees during the day, misty winters beach weather.  Over the mountains in a few days is supposed to be 45.   

Winding roads much like Northern California but more narrow and distinctly nowhere but here.   Found some dirt to the beach north of Papudo and had some fun trying out the bikes there.

The bikes have been great on the highways, the twisties and the dirt.  All around easy, fun, and let us go anywhere.  Happy with our choice for the smaller bikes. 

 

Valparaiso

Not a bad view from our place  

We are actually in Viña Del Mar which is just a few miles north of Valparaiso.  We arrived and our couchsurfing hosts, Matias and Sebastian made us lunch and then took us on a tour of the city.  It was such a great experience to have locals show us around. We walked and slid on the various slides that dot the walkways of the city. A little nod to its very steep hills, might as well have fun with it. 

Santiago to Valparaiso to Papudo to back to Valparaiso to las Dorcas back to Valparaiso back to Santiago

We rode from Santiago to Valparaiso using the main highway going about 70km/hr in a 100km/hr zone. Very interesting.  We bought these bikes new so there is a break in period of about 1000km to which we aren't supposed to go above 70km/hr, no high revving or fast starts.  So 70 we go as everyone passes us, mostly at respectful distances.  Luckily Valparaiso is only about an hour and half away and we are only on the highway about 45 minute.  The rest is back roads, scrubby hills, dry wine country and then windy, steep roads down from the higher altitudes to sea level.  Think San Franciso steep but with huge potholes and dogs darting out at random intervals trying to kill you.   People write a lot about the dogs while riding in South America.  I will note here that they are not exaggerating.  The dogs are everywhere but generally happy, docile, hanging out doing dog things 

This dog was happy to guide us to the notary one morning in Santiago. 

But many dogs seem to either hate motorcycles or love chasing them. I have been having several very close calls a day here since we got the bikes.  Yesterday I swear I felt teeth on the tires and warm fur on my pant leg. Luckily there are tactics to deal with this and we are ok so far.  On our stop on the way here we met a shop owner who had had an accident due to a dog darting out at him.  He has a huge scar from his elbow to shoulder. He is fine now and has good humor about it.  We wandered into his dirt floored road stand looking for coffee to warm up after a chilly morning riding.  I think we were there a little before they were open and I think we looked maybe like lost little children.  He and his workers were here and there doing opening like activities.   He saw us and ushered us to a cozy corner table that looked like his personal territory. The table had his newspapers scattered around and old coffee cups.  He treated us like old friends and talked with us for over an hour bringing us little things to try and telling us to help ourselves to the coffee that was cooking over an open fire in the yard.  He shared his private stock of homemade terrine de cerdo and fresh bread baked in the outdoor adobe oven.  He drizzled it in olive oil and salt and explained that the pig had a happy life here.  It was so was delicious.  He also refused to let us pay and called us friends. I am totally humbled by the hospitality we have experienced since arriving here.  

Thank you Charlie for helping us to feel welcome in Chile!

100 km

We did our first 100 km today. We're trying to get to 1000 km by Tuesday, so we can have the bikes in for the first service in the interstitial period before the paperwork is sorted.

We made a little trip up to Cometierra, which is in the mountains just outside the city. The roads ascend very gradually, so we were able to make the climb while still babying the engines.

I was twice persued by a dog. Amanda says that when she passes by she alerts the dogs to our presence such that by the time I come around, they're primed and ready for me.

Tomorrow we go to Viña del Mar.