Santiago to Valparaiso to Papudo to back to Valparaiso to las Dorcas back to Valparaiso back to Santiago

We rode from Santiago to Valparaiso using the main highway going about 70km/hr in a 100km/hr zone. Very interesting.  We bought these bikes new so there is a break in period of about 1000km to which we aren't supposed to go above 70km/hr, no high revving or fast starts.  So 70 we go as everyone passes us, mostly at respectful distances.  Luckily Valparaiso is only about an hour and half away and we are only on the highway about 45 minute.  The rest is back roads, scrubby hills, dry wine country and then windy, steep roads down from the higher altitudes to sea level.  Think San Franciso steep but with huge potholes and dogs darting out at random intervals trying to kill you.   People write a lot about the dogs while riding in South America.  I will note here that they are not exaggerating.  The dogs are everywhere but generally happy, docile, hanging out doing dog things 

This dog was happy to guide us to the notary one morning in Santiago. 

But many dogs seem to either hate motorcycles or love chasing them. I have been having several very close calls a day here since we got the bikes.  Yesterday I swear I felt teeth on the tires and warm fur on my pant leg. Luckily there are tactics to deal with this and we are ok so far.  On our stop on the way here we met a shop owner who had had an accident due to a dog darting out at him.  He has a huge scar from his elbow to shoulder. He is fine now and has good humor about it.  We wandered into his dirt floored road stand looking for coffee to warm up after a chilly morning riding.  I think we were there a little before they were open and I think we looked maybe like lost little children.  He and his workers were here and there doing opening like activities.   He saw us and ushered us to a cozy corner table that looked like his personal territory. The table had his newspapers scattered around and old coffee cups.  He treated us like old friends and talked with us for over an hour bringing us little things to try and telling us to help ourselves to the coffee that was cooking over an open fire in the yard.  He shared his private stock of homemade terrine de cerdo and fresh bread baked in the outdoor adobe oven.  He drizzled it in olive oil and salt and explained that the pig had a happy life here.  It was so was delicious.  He also refused to let us pay and called us friends. I am totally humbled by the hospitality we have experienced since arriving here.  

Thank you Charlie for helping us to feel welcome in Chile!